citrus ice

I have a small collection of recipes that I consider my "go to" recipes- dishes that I can put together with a small amount of ingredients, fuss, and time. This is one of them. It's elegance belies it's ease. I provide the recipe as a guide and hope that it be used as I use it- for any manner of citrus available. As I am resolutely on my ruby red grapefruit binge, they have been used here. However, the ice is equally love with lemon, lime or a combination therein.

I use the word "ice" because the end form really depends on what tools are utilized. I always hate it when I open a cookbook and see gorgeous photos and intriguing food, only to read on and find that I have none of the specialty equipment to make any of it. I now own an ice cream maker and can say that I consider making ice cream to be a perfect dessert solution (completed far in advance- days even, rather simple, delights everyone). However, if you do not have an ice cream maker, no worries. By freezing the citrus and simple syrup mixture in a metal pan, you can create a granita. If the mixture is freezed in an ice cream maker, the result is sorbet.

This recipe is adapted from Susan Branch's cookbook "Heart of the Home".
Citrus Ice

2 cups water
2 cups sugar
1 to 1 1/2 cups citrus juice: the number of lemons, limes, or grapefruits will depend on their size.
citrus zest (for lemon or lime ice, I suggest about 2 tablespoons of zest)

1) Make the simple syrup- Place the water in a saucepan, stir in the sugar and boil until dissolved. Remove the mixture from the heat and let it cool. Congratulations you have now made simple syrup! (equal parts water and sugar, it is used in all kinds of desserts and cocktails)

2) Once the simple syrup is cooled, stir in the juice (For grapefruit ice, I use 1 1/2 cups of fresh juice, for lemon or lime ice 1 cup). If using, also stir in the zest.

3) For Granita: Pour mixture into a metal pan (I find a loaf pan works well) and freeze. When ready to serve, scrape a fork along the frozen mixture. It creates a light, shaved ice texture.
For Sorbet: Pour into an ice cream maker and freeze according to manufacturers instructions.

A scoop of homemade ice cream or sorbet is pretty much bliss for me. For a good friend of ours, I once made coffee ice cream because I know he loves coffee. I knew it was a wholly successful gesture when a few months later he reciprocated the dinner invitation and served my husband and I a beautiful dish of vanilla and berry ice cream for dessert (from his new ice cream maker, natch).

french apple tart

It is apparently my secret wish to feed everyone in the world this apple tart. I can only assume this because I made it for nearly every event during the holiday season: Thanksgiving dinner, work potluck, Christmas supper with family, and New Years Day brunch with friends. It really beats any apple pie and is far simpler. Yes, scandalous claim I know, but nonetheless true: only one crust to make and a fanning of sliced apples, a few cubes of butter, and a sprinkling of sugar- really a pretty small amount of effort for how delicious this is.

(Side story: I baked this tart early on Thanksgiving morning and left it to cool on the counter before we would take it over to our friends for Thanksgiving dinner dessert. A bit later I was showering when my husband stuck his head in the bathroom door and hollered "I'm sorry!" and then quickly closed the door again. After getting dressed and returning to the kitchen I found a rather sizeable piece of the apple tart missing and a husband who I do not think was very sorry at all.)

The recipe is from Ina Garten's Back to Basics cookbook. She includes a glaze to put on at the end, but I have to confess, I have never bothered with it. This is partly because I do not really care for apricots but mostly because the tart rarely sits around long enough. Also, Ina brilliantly makes her pastry crust in the food processor. This is sheer genius except my food processor is too small. I include her instructions because if I ever procure a large enough food processor, it will certainly be the way that I will make all my pastry crusts. Until then, I use a little pastry cutter and a mixing bowl. (see note*)

I also feel obligated to add that while this recipe says it serves 6, I have watched 3 people easily polish this off for breakfast.

French Apple Tart

for the pastry
2 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1 tablespoon sugar
12 tablespoons (1 1/2 sticks) cold unsalted butter, diced
1/2 cup ice water

for the apples
4 granny smith apples
1/2 cup sugar
4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) cold unsalted butter, small-diced

for the glaze (which I do not use, but go for it)
1/2 cup apricot jelly or warm sieved apricot jam
2 tablespoons Calvados, rum, or water

1) For the pastry, place the flour, salt, and sugar in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the steel blade. Pulse for a few seconds to combine.

2) Add the butter and pulse 10 to 12 times, until the butter is in small bits the size of peas.

3) With the motor running, pour the ice water down the feed tube and pulse just until the dough starts to come together.

4) Dump onto a floured board and knead quickly into a ball. Wrap in plastic and refrigerate for at least 1 hour. (This step is pretty important, although in a pinch I confess to only allowing the dough to chill for 30 minutes.)

5) Preheat the oven to 400 degress. Line a sheet pan with parchment paper. (Pretty essential- there will be much cursing and general surliness if the paper is left out.)

6) Roll the dough slightly larger than 10 x 14 inches. Using a ruler and a small knife, trim the edges. (In addition to skipping the glaze, I skip this part too. I rather like the rustic look of the tart untrimmed and greedily want all the crust I can get.)

7) Place the dough on the prepared sheet pan and refrigerate while you prepare the apples.

8) Peel the apples and cut them in half through the stem. Remove the stems and cores with a sharp knife and a melon baller (oops, I guess I don't use the melon baller either). Slice the apples crosswise in 1/4 inch thick slices.

9) Place overlapping slices of apples diagonally down the middle of the tart and continue making diagonal rows on both sides of the first row until the pastry is covered with apple slices. Ina Notes: "I tend not to use the apple ends in order to make the arrangement beautiful".


10) Sprinkle with the full 1/2 cup sugar and dot with the butter.

11) Bake for 45 minutes to 1 hour, until the pastry is brown and the edges of the apples start to brown. (I definitely lean more towards 45 minutes baking time). Rotate the pan once during cooking. If the pastry puffs up in one area, cut a little sit with a knife to the let air out. Don't worry! The apple juices will burn in the pan but the tart will be fine!

12) When the tart's done, heat the apricot jelly together with the Calvados an dbrush the apples and the pastry completely with the jelly mixture. Loosen the tart with a metal spatula so it doesn't stick to the paper.

13) Allow to cool and serve warm or at room temperature. (There are people who feel strongly that this should be served warm with french vanilla ice cream. I take it any way I can get it.)

*Note regarding making pastry:
Homemade crust used to terrify me- everyone is always talking about how hard it is- but honestly, I find it just takes a bit of practice. My biggest advice? cold butter, very very cold butter. I leave it in the fridge until the moment it is added.
It is actually enormously satisfying to make my own. And once you get the hang of it and bring this tart to your friends, when they ooh and aah over it's charm and swoon over it's flavor, and turn to you wide-eyed and ask you "Did you make the crust?" You can smile and say, "Why yes, yes I did."
However, if you would like to skip all the heartache or need a short cut, I pass on Ina's advice that a sheet of defrosted puff pastry will also work.

Holiday Breakfast

Morton Family Strata & Broiled Grapefruit

On Christmas mornings my father always made my great grandmothers recipe for baked eggs. This baked strata is my homage to that family tradition, while still allowing me a quiet holiday morning. I think it is great that it cooks, unattended, leaving one for present opening or coffee chats with family. And really, with a big meal looming later in the day, the last thing I want to be doing on a holiday morning is frying eggs.

I really enjoy stealing ideas from movies, hence the strata recipe below. One of my favorite holiday films is "The Family Stone". In the film, this strata plays a minor, but memorable role.

The recipe comes from the website recipezaar.com. I have tweaked the recipe in that the original, inexplicably, calls for canned tomatoes and sliced white onions. I have replaced these with julienned roma tomatoes and a scant handful of chopped scallions. My husband is requesting that next time I make this, it include some sausage or ham. This also seems like a good idea.

Morton Family Strata
(recipe says serves 8, but I think 6 would be more accurate)

8 slices white bread
8 ounces mozzarella cheese, sliced
3 roma tomatoes (halved, scoop the seeds out, then sliced into strips)
13 ounces sliced mushrooms, drained (or sauteed fresh in 1 tablespoon butter)
3 scallions, chopped
5 eggs
3 cups milk
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon oregano
1 pinch garlic salt
parmesan cheese

1) Using a cookie cutter, cut bread into shapes or circles. Set aside.

2) Place bread scraps in bottom of buttered 13" by 9" baking dish. Layer half of the mozzarella cheese over bread. (If it helps, think of building the strata like building the layers of a lasagna. Then, at the end, an egg custard is poured over all the layers, to soak overnight.)

3) Arrange half of the tomatoes and all of the onions and mushrooms over the mozzarella cheese. Cover with the rest of the mozzarella cheese.

4) Arrange the bread shapes on the cheese. Arrange the tomato strips on the bread shapes.

5) Combine slightly beaten eggs, milk, salt, oregano and garlic salt. Pour over the bread.

6) Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese. Cover. Refrigerate for 6 hours or overnight.

7) Bake 1-1/2 hours in a 325 degree F oven, or until knife comes out clean. Let stand for 5 minutes or until firm.Growing up, my mother would sometimes make us broiled grapefruit for breakfast. I think it is a nice accompaniment to the strata. It is quite possibly the most gorgeous breakfast and is at once cozy and elegant. I love that in the midst of winter, with leafless trees and gray skies, there is the cheery pinkness of this grapefruit. What follows is less of a recipe and more of an idea, but one that I hope you'll indulge and try yourself.

Broiled grapefruit

3 pink grapefruits (or enough for each person to get their own half)
light brown sugar

1) Turn on the oven broiler.

2) Cut the pink grapefruits in half. Take a moment to run a small knife around the segments. The idea is to precut the segments so that after they have been heavenly crusted with brown sugar, they can be easily scooped out with a spoon. This small time investment is completely worth it.

3) Top each grapefruit half with about 2 tablespoons of brown sugar. If it does not look like enough, by all means, add more.

4) Place the grapefruit halves on a rimmed baking sheet and broil until the sugar is melted and somewhat caramelized.

5) Please take a moment to admire it's color (and let it cool ever so slightly) then enjoy.

butternut squash soup

My husbands family adores butternut squash. I do not know if I can honestly say I had ever even had butternut squash before I spent my first Thanksgiving with them. But there it was, this gorgeous, golden orange mash, right alongside the potatoes on the Thanksgiving buffet. I am so grateful that this flavor is now part of my Thanksgiving canon. It is sweet and earthy and so ridiculously good for you.
I have also discovered that I love butternut squash soup. And really, after a few days of Thanksgiving leftover indulgence (pumpkin pie for breakfast, turkey melt sandwiches for lunch) I find a light soup like this butternut squash quite welcome. It is comforting but not cloying. The recipe is from Giada De Laurentiis. Her recipe calls for a fontina crostini. I like it as is with a bit of cheese (sharp English cheddar) and crackers (pepper poppyseed water crackers are the current addiction) on the side.

Butternut Squash Soup

2 tablespoons butter, at room temperature
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped
1 medium carrot, peeled and chopped into 1/2-inch pieces
3 cloves garlic, minced
3 1/2 pounds butternut squash, peeled, seeded, and cut into 3/4-inch pieces (about 7 to 8 cups) (peeling a butternut squash is the least fun job ever- please be careful)
6 cups low-sodium chicken stock
1/4 cup chopped fresh sage leaves
salt and freshly ground black pepper

1) In an 8-quart stockpot, add the butter and oil and melt together over medium-high heat. Add the onion and carrot and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is soft, about 5 minutes.

2) Stir in the garlic and cook until aromatic, about 30 seconds.

3) Add the squash and the chicken stock. Bring the mixture to a boil and add the sage. Continue to boil until the vegetables are tender, about 20 minutes.

4) Turn off the heat. Using an immersion blender, blend the mixture until smooth and thick. Season with salt and pepper, to taste. Keep the soup warm over low heat. (A small note: While this recipe utilizes an immersion blender, I think a food mill or regular blender would work just fine. I do have to say that I treasure my immersion blender and give it all my gold stars for ease of use.)

pumpkin cupcakes with nutmeg cream cheese frosting

I have more than a slight obsession with nutmeg. Good friends of mine will tell you that I like to drink my eggnog with the nutmeg shaker close by- and regularly give it a good dose. I also think that besides the eggnog application, nutmeg is rather undervalued. It is often added to recipes alongside loud cinnamon and pushy ginger; it's quiet voice lost.

No more- in this treat it is nutmeg's turn in the spotlight. I think it pulls off quite a performance.

The pumpkin cupcake recipe is from Martha Stewart. com. The Cream Cheese frosting is in Ina Garten's The Barefoot Contessa Cookbook - the nutmeg is my addition.


Pumpkin Cupcakes


2 cups all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon baking soda

1 teaspoon baking powder

1 teaspoon coarse salt

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon ground ginger

1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg (pre-ground is just fine)

1/4 teaspoon ground allspice

1 cup packed light-brown sugar

1 cup granulated sugar

1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, melted and cooled

4 large eggs, lightly beaten

1 can (15 ounces) pumpkin puree


1) Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line cupcake pans with paper liners; set aside. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, baking soda, baking powder, salt, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, and allspice; set aside.


2) In a large bowl, whisk together, brown sugar, granulated sugar, butter, and eggs. Add dry ingredients, and whisk until smooth. Whisk in pumpkin puree.


3) Divide batter evenly among liners, filling each about halfway. Bake until tops spring back when touched, and a cake tester inserted in the center comes out clean, 20 to 25 minutes, rotating pans once if needed. Transfer to a wire rack; let cool completely.


4) When cooled completely, frost with nutmeg cream cheese frosting (see recipe below). Add a dash of nutmeg to the top of each.


Nutmeg Cream Cheese Frosting


1 pound cream cheese at room temperature

3/4 pound unsalted butter at room temperature

1 tsp vanilla extract

1 1/2 pounds confectioners sugar, sifted

1/4-1/2 teaspoon nutmeg (to your taste- Of course I go for the 1/2 teaspoon)


1) Blend together the cream cheese, butter, vanilla and nutmeg.


2) Add the confectioners sugar and mix until smooth.

pumpkin chocolate chip cookies

This recipe is from my Grandma Irene. She is a fantastic cook, collector of recipes and the classiest woman I know. As a kid, I saw a picture of Jackie O and thought it was my Grandmother. She is that classy.
I love how a particular recipe can make me feel connected to people. For example, this recipe came to me via my sister but it is originally my grandmother's. My family and I are spread out around the country, but anytime I make these cookies, I feel what it is like when we are together. Today, when I was talking to my mom, I told her I was making these cookies. I could hear that collective nostalgic sigh- for comfort and love and how that is all wrapped up in this spice laced cookie.
These cookies are fun because they are just a little bit different than the standard pumpkin treat. They also keep beautifully. The chocolate chips are my addition. I love the combination of chocolate and pumpkin, but if you don't, feel free to leave the chips out.

Chocolate Chip Pumpkin Cookies

1 1/2 cups butter, room temperature
2 cups light brown sugar
1 cup granulated sugar
1 15 oz. can pumpkin
1 egg
1 tsp vanilla
4 cups flour
2 cups quick oats
2 tsp baking soda
2 tsp cinnamon
1 tsp salt

1) Preheat the oven to 350.

2) Cream together the butter and sugars until fluffy.

3) Mix in pumpkin, egg and vanilla.

4) In a separate bowl, wisk the dry ingredients together. (I usually sift my flour before adding because I am paranoid about lumps, but please don't feel it's a requirement.)

5) Add the dry ingredients to the wet ingredients until blended. (Yes, it is a huge batch of cookie dough. Good luck stirring. At this point, even my stand up mixer is complaining.)

6) Stir in the chocolate chips by hand.

7) Drop by tablespoons on to an ungreased cookie sheet and bake for 10-15 minutes until golden. Let the cookie sit for a couple of minutes on the cookie sheet before transferring them to cool on cookie racks.

I do not technically know how many cookies this recipe is supposed to yield. But I almost always get about 4 dozen.

deviled egg salad with rocket sandwich

I first had egg salad with rocket on the balcony of the Tate Modern overlooking the River Thames on a drizzly London day. I like the peppery bite the rocket (arugula) adds to balance the creaminess of the egg salad. From that sandwich (kind of sad that my inspiration from the Tate Modern was stuck at egg salad) I realized that I love deviled eggs ever so much more than I like bland egg salad. The result is that I now make my egg salad more like deviled eggs- lots of fresh cracked pepper, cayenne pepper, dijon mustard, and a splash of white wine vinegar. This, on whole wheat bread with a layer of rocket, makes for an egg salad that has a nice kick.
It seems silly, even to me, to be including an egg salad sandwich recipe. As if any of us needed help knowing what to put between two slices of bread. I console myself by saying I am including this as just a simple idea that I love to eat. It is this idea that makes a little better experience of my work day lunch. I share it with you in the hopes that you will be similarly inspired to take an extra 2 minutes when packing your work day lunch (since packing a lovely lunch is the pinnacle of recessionista chic.) Not that egg salad sandwiches should be limited to lunch time fare. I have been known to bring a tupperware of deviled egg salad along (in a cooler of course) on car camping trips. It is pretty great for an easy camping breakfast. I should also disclose that the sandwich photographed above was happily consumed for my Saturday night supper.

Deviled Egg Salad with Rocket Sandwich

3 Hard Boiled Eggs*
3 tablespoons mayonnaise
1 tablespoon dijon mustard
dash of white wine vinegar
cayenne pepper
salt
pepper
2 slices whole wheat bread
small handful of rocket leaves (rocket is a more fun, and I am pretty sure British, way of saying arugula. Regardless, it is sold in a bag at my grocery store as arugula and I think it is a nice sandwich green)


1) Hard boil the eggs: put three eggs in a small pan with just enough water to cover. Put on the stove at medium high heat. Once the water begins to boil (a really good rapid boil), turn the stove off, clamp on a lid and leave the eggs alone for 20 minutes. After 20 minutes, rinse the eggs under cold water and peel off the shells.

2) Cut up the eggs into a medium dice (or whatever suits you) and place in a small bowl. (Probably everyone else knows this, but I only recently discovered that if I scoop the egg yolks out first, the whites are much easier to chop.) To the eggs add the mayonnaise, mustard, dash of white wine vinegar (seriously, just a few drops), and salt & peppers to taste.

3) Spread the egg salad mixture on to one piece of the bread. Top with a small pile of rocket. Top this with another piece of bread. (Note: if planning on bringing for lunch, might I recommend keeping the egg salad in tupperware and assembling the sandwich right before it is eaten? Otherwise things can get pretty soggy.)

*I realize that three eggs are a lot for one person to eat. I can only say that whenever I make egg salad with two eggs, my sandwich feels a bit skimpy. It is entirely possible that I am being too greedy.